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Whenever assembling a list of London’s top eateries, one might foresee familiar award-winning establishments. Yet, situated high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a distant area of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. This recognition has made the family totally surprised.

“I’m completely shocked,” remarks a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their modest place achieving such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its original feel. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the food, and this establishment certainly delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent texture.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

It is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s success is bound to resonate beyond its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this gastronomic achievement.