The City of Bristol's Backyard Vineyards: Grape-Treading Fruit in City Spaces

Each quarter of an hour or so, an ageing diesel train arrives at a graffiti-covered stop. Nearby, a police siren cuts through the almost continuous traffic drone. Commuters rush by falling apart, ivy-covered fencing panels as storm clouds gather.

It is maybe the last place you anticipate to find a perfectly formed vineyard. However James Bayliss-Smith has managed to 40 mature vines sagging with plump purplish berries on a rambling allotment situated between a line of 1930s houses and a local rail line just north of the city town centre.

"I've seen people concealing heroin or other items in the shrubbery," says the grower. "But you simply continue ... and keep tending to your vines."

The cameraman, forty-six, a documentary cameraman who runs a fermented beverage company, is among several urban winemaker. He has pulled together a loose collective of cultivators who produce wine from four hidden urban vineyards nestled in private yards and allotments across Bristol. It is too clandestine to have an formal title yet, but the group's messaging chat is called Vineyard Dreams.

Urban Vineyards Across the World

To date, the grower's allotment is the only one listed in the City Vineyard Network's forthcoming global directory, which features better-known urban wineries such as the eighteen hundred vines on the slopes of Paris's historic artistic district area and over 3,000 grapevines overlooking and inside the Italian city. The Italian-based non-profit association is at the forefront of a initiative reviving city vineyards in traditional winemaking nations, but has identified them throughout the globe, including urban centers in East Asia, South Asia and Uzbekistan.

"Vineyards assist cities stay more eco-friendly and ecologically varied. They preserve land from development by establishing permanent, productive farming plots within urban environments," explains the organization's leader.

Like all wines, those created in urban areas are a product of the earth the vines grow in, the unpredictability of the climate and the people who tend the fruit. "Each vintage represents the charm, local spirit, landscape and history of a city," notes the spokesperson.

Unknown Eastern European Variety

Back in the city, the grower is in a race against time to harvest the vines he grew from a plant left in his allotment by a Polish family. If the rain comes, then the pigeons may take advantage to attack again. "Here we have the enigmatic Eastern European grape," he comments, as he removes damaged and mouldy grapes from the shimmering clusters. "The variety remains uncertain their exact classification, but they are certainly disease-resistant. Unlike premium grapes – Burgundy grapes, white wine grapes and additional renowned European varieties – you need not treat them with chemicals ... this is possibly a special variety that was developed by the Soviets."

Collective Efforts Throughout the City

Additional participants of the group are additionally taking advantage of sunny interludes between bursts of fall precipitation. At a rooftop garden with views of Bristol's shimmering harbour, where medieval merchant vessels once floated with casks of wine from Europe and the Iberian peninsula, one cultivator is collecting her dark berries from about fifty vines. "I adore the smell of the grapevines. It is so reminiscent," she remarks, stopping with a basket of grapes resting on her shoulder. "It recalls the fragrance of Provence when you roll down the car windows on holiday."

Grant, 52, who has spent over two decades working for humanitarian organizations in conflict zones, unexpectedly took over the grape garden when she moved back to the UK from Kenya with her household in 2018. She felt an strong responsibility to maintain the vines in the yard of their recently acquired property. "This plot has previously endured three different owners," she explains. "I really like the idea of environmental care – of handing this down to future caretakers so they keep cultivating from the soil."

Sloping Vineyards and Traditional Winemaking

Nearby, the final two members of the group are hard at work on the steep inclines of the local river valley. Jo Scofield has established more than one hundred fifty vines situated on ledges in her expansive property, which tumbles down towards the silty local waterway. "People are always surprised," she says, gesturing towards the tangled vineyard. "It's astonishing to them they are viewing grapevine lines in a urban neighborhood."

Today, the filmmaker, 60, is harvesting bunches of deep violet dark berries from rows of plants slung across the cliff-side with the help of her daughter, Luca. The conservationist, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has contributed to Netflix's Great National Parks series and BBC Two's Gardeners' World, was inspired to cultivate vines after seeing her neighbour's grapevines. She has learned that amateurs can produce intriguing, enjoyable traditional vintage, which can sell for upwards of seven pounds a glass in the increasing quantity of wine bars focusing on minimal-intervention wines. "It's just deeply rewarding that you can truly make quality, traditional vintage," she states. "It is quite on trend, but really it's resurrecting an traditional method of making vintage."

"When I tread the fruit, all the natural microorganisms come off the surfaces and enter the juice," explains Scofield, ankle deep in a container of tiny stems, pips and crimson juice. "That's how wines were historically produced, but industrial wineries introduce preservatives to kill the natural cultures and then add a commercially produced yeast."

Difficult Conditions and Inventive Approaches

A few doors down sprightly retiree Bob Reeve, who motivated Scofield to plant her vines, has assembled his companions to pick Chardonnay grapes from one hundred plants he has arranged precisely across multiple levels. Reeve, a northern English PE teacher who taught at the local university developed a passion for viticulture on regular visits to France. But it is a challenge to cultivate Chardonnay grapes in the dampness of the valley, with cooling tides sweeping in and out from the nearby estuary. "I wanted to produce French-style vintages here, which is somewhat ambitious," admits Reeve with a smile. "Chardonnay is late to ripen and particularly vulnerable to mildew."

"I wanted to make Burgundian wines in this environment, which is rather ambitious"

The unpredictable Bristol climate is not the only challenge faced by grape cultivators. The gardener has been compelled to install a barrier on

Ashley Fischer
Ashley Fischer

Elena is a tech enthusiast and science writer with a passion for uncovering the latest innovations and sharing knowledge with a global audience.